How to Get a Close Shave with a Straight Razor

Looking for the perfect close shave? Consider using a straight razor.

Anyone who has gone through a steady diet of horror-slasher films knows that a straight razor isn’t something to take lightly. Here’s a fun fact: straight razors were also known as cut-throat razors. In the 1900s, barbers had to undergo training to use this tool.

Only Sweeney Todd took his training to the extreme, but then that was Todd.

Here's what you can find in this guide:

• The Way of the Perfect Shave
• Use a High-Quality Razor Blade
• Shave Slowly and Carefully
• Finally, Use an Aftershave

The Way of the Perfect Shave

Despite its scary reputation, the straight razor is the only tool capable of giving you a close shave. Connoisseurs in the fine art of male grooming swear that using a straight razor gives you a near-perfect shave.

The long blade, when handled and cleaned correctly, covers more area per stroke, lessening incidents of razor bumps. It also helps exfoliate the skin, scraping away dead skin cells.

The novelist Terin Miller was nostalgic about the straight razor. “There is something old-world masculine, if not reassuring, in putting a blade to your throat in your own hand in the morning, and deciding to continue living.”, he said.

So, how does one get that perfectly shaved mug?

Use a High-Quality Razor Blade

Naked Armor's Lancelot Straight Razor, crafted with a well-tempered Japanese stainless steel blade, offers beginners an easy-to-handle, sharp yet lightweight option that glides smoothly across facial contours for a safer shave.

Not all straight razor blades are alike. When shopping for one, look for well-tempered blades, as they sharpen well. To check, The Art of Manliness¹ recommends catching the blade point under your thumbnail and slipping it off quickly.

If it gives a clear ring, it’s most likely to be well-tempered. Also, choose a round pointed blade, as it will minimize cuts, especially if you are still a newbie in the art of shaving.

Blade width is also an essential factor when choosing your straight razor. Generally, a 5/8-inch blade allows you to easily control the blade as it sweeps through the contours of your face.

Naked Armor founder Derek Dodds recommends a Japanese blade for beginners. “While German-made Solingen steel razor blades are the best in the world, Japanese-made blades are no slouches in that department either.”, he said.

Blade-making is a revered cultural tradition in Japan. “Japanese straight razor blades are sharp but light, which makes it easier for a newbie to handle,” said Derek.

Shave Slowly and Carefully

Shaving using a straight razor is a ritual. An almost Zen-like quality comes from disengaging yourself from the world to focus on the blade strokes as it shaves off the whiskers from your face.

Pick one side of your face and begin at the sideburn, making a gentle but firm stroke downward. Pull the skin taut with your other hand. Trust in the blade's sharpness; make your strokes even and short.

After every stroke, rinse the blade in hot water and continue down until you shave the entire side of the face.

After shaving the cheek, move to the right side under your jaw. Tilt your head to expose the skin and draw it tight before shaving it downward. Repeat the same moves for the other side of your face.

Meanwhile, shaving your upper lip and chin is an exercise in muscle dexterity. To make the skin as taut as possible for that smooth stroke, you need to draw your upper lip down or lower lip up, as the case may be, to shave the whiskers easily.

When shaving under the chin, tread carefully unless you want to become a Sweeney Todd copycat victim. That’s because the skin under the chin is sensitive and easily cut. Use your fingers to stretch the skin tight, and carefully use downward strokes.

GQ² magazine recommends shaving along the direction of the beard’s growth. Leave the across-the-grain shaving to your barber or when you’ve become a seasoned wielder of the blade for a barber-like shave. Your mug will suffer fewer scars for it, and you'll enjoy the best benefits of straight razor shaving.

Check out Nomad Barber³, Old School Italian Barber⁴, and the Art of Shaving Master Series⁵ on YouTube.

Finally, Use an Aftershave

Finish your shave with an aftershave, such as Naked Armor’s Hemp Aftershave Balm, to reduce irritation, close pores, and bring a satisfying finish to your straight razor ritual.

After shaving, always apply an aftershave. The aftershave reduces skin irritation and closes the skin pores. Applying an aftershave also gives a satisfying denouement to the entire ritual.

It’s as if you’re patting yourself on the back for mastering the art of using a straight razor to get a nice, close shave.

Take it from an expert. It will be worth it. Says Derek, “It makes me sing after the sting.”

So what do you think? Are you ready to give straight razor shaving a try?

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More Naked Armor Reads

The 4 Best Straight Razors: Top Picks From Premium Brands for a Superior Shave
Master the Art of Shaving: The Best Straight Razor Selection Guide
The Best Straight Razor for Beginners

References

1. Brett. (2009, October 6). Shave Like Your Great Grandpa: The Ultimate Straight Razor Shaving Guide. Art of Manliness. https://www.artofmanliness.com/style/shaving/how-to-straight-razor-shave/
2. How to use a Straight Razor. (2002, November 30). GQ. https://www.gq.com/story/straight-razor
3. Hemmed Up. (2016, June 16). Straight Shaving a 6 Month Beard. Youtube. https://youtu.be/_0uhh9RvvAQ?si=W7CSOLAxbLNEOrxg
4. geofatboy. (2010, September 7). Quick Tutorial: Learn How To Shave with a Straight Razor‪@geofatboy‬. Youtube. https://youtu.be/qDR_1hg-xNs?si=f4UiAZbwkqU92b95
5. Allen, W. (2015, March 27). SHAVING MY BEARD OFF WITH A STRAIGHT RAZOR. Youtube. https://youtu.be/6dbQ2OA4SRA?si=LG_y_VJR9S-eYKJd