Is Shaving Against the Grain Bad?

“To be or not to be,” the famous question begins.

Anyone taking up Shakespeare would immediately recognize Hamlet’s soliloquy against the slings and arrows of his particular misfortunes. But given that the Bard¹, if we are to believe his only portrait that has survived the centuries, was also sporting a kick-ass beard, one can also remark tongue-in-cheek that he was also referring to whether or not he would have to shave against the grain. Because how else could he have gotten those sharp beard lines?

In this article, we’ll explore whether shaving against the grain is bad for your skin, explain what the grain is, how to find it, and whether it’s a good idea to shave against it—plus, we’ll discuss the role of the traditional straight edge shaving razor in achieving a smooth, irritation-free shave.

• Is Shaving Against the Grain Bad?
• What is the Grain?
• How Does One Find the Grain?
• Should One Start Shaving Against the Grain?
• The Traditional Straight Edge Shaving Razor

Is Shaving Against the Grain Bad?

Whether it is bad to shave against the grain is an age-old question among shaving purists. I’m sure even the Egyptians, who started the fine art of shaving, had also thought about it. But given that they were more into shaving their heads bald, instead of beards, they probably did not give it too much serious thought.

This is probably why, until today, there is no widespread consensus on whether shaving across the grain is good or bad. In the particular male subculture of shaving connoisseurs, opinions are as varied as beard styles. Dive into any online forums about shaving, and you’ll always find someone who swears shaving for or against the grain.

What is the Grain?

Simply put, the grain is the natural direction in which the hair grows.

Our hair follicles are set to grow in a predetermined pattern right at birth. Those of us with the balding gene will lose hair at an early age; similarly, those with Bigfoot-like lush body hair are also a product of our genetic makeup.

Hair growth differs between individuals. If you examine your facial hair closely now, you will find that the hair direction varies at different spots. Your cheek hair may go downward, while your chin hair may go upward. The neck hair might grow upward and slightly towards the center of the throat.

This, of course, varies per individual. The challenge here is determining which parts are where the grain changes direction. These are the places that you want to end a stroke and start with another.

How Does One Find the Grain?

First, you must let your hair grow out for a few days. By then, you will have enough of a stubble to guide you along the grain. Run your fingers across each part of your beard in all directions. If you feel resistance, that is against the grain. The direction that has the least resistance is the direction of the grain.

For most men, there is a sharp change of direction just around the jawline. Memorize that spot so you will know when to stop your downward stroke and begin another to shave off your beard cleanly.

On YouTube, Toxin-Free Farmstead² has an excellent how-to video that uses sound to guide you in finding your grain. Check it out.

Should One Start Shaving Against the Grain?

No. At least, not yet.

Here at Naked Armor, we consider the art of shaving to be the manliest of rituals. It cannot be rushed. A clean shave, which achieves a baby-butt smoothness of chin and mug, cannot be obtained in just one stroke. It must be approached with a certain sense of glacial indulgence and luxury.

A clean shave, therefore, can only be obtained in three passes.

First, begin shaving by going with the growth direction. This pass will be the easiest and least likely to provoke skin irritation. Use short, gradual strokes and approach from the right angle to prevent nicks or razor burns.

Once you’re finished, rinse your face and reapply lather. On the second pass, shave across the direction of the growth by making a perpendicular stroke. Now, you’ve achieved a much closer shave.

Rinse and reapply lather. Remember also to wash your razor.

Finally, since the third time’s the charm, shave against the grain. Lay the blade almost flat against your skin and go slowly. Don’t put too much pressure, or the blade’ll likely cut you. Let the razor’s weight do the work for you.

This three-pass shaving method allows you to reduce your facial hair to achieve a close shave gradually. So, yeah, it’s not a bad thing to shave against the grain. Just don’t do it on the first pass.

The Traditional Straight Edge Shaving Razor

A straight razor's fine, single blade allows for a close, controlled shave against the grain, minimizing irritation and ensuring accuracy.

Now that you know shaving against the grain is okay, you must equip yourself with the proper tool to achieve the closest shave. With the convenience of modern razors, any kind or brand can do the job. But being the discriminating gentleman you are, I’m sure you wouldn’t settle for the mediocre, right?

Techniques and methods will not matter without the correct equipment. You need a straight razor to get that elusive clean shave with minimum strokes.

Straight razor shaving has risen in popularity over the years. Men see it as the ultimate accessory in mastering the art of shaving. NOAH (formerly Men's Biz)³ says that using a straight razor is “like driving an E-Type Jaguar, despite that fact that modern cars have more technology packed into a single door handle. It requires skill and precision, but when used properly delivers the best shave possible.”

There are many benefits to using a straight razor. The best one is that it gets the job done, even in the most intimate areas. Because straight razor blades are very sharp, they can cut beards close to the skin with a minimum number of passes and less irritation, perfect for those who shave daily!

At Naked Armor, our fine selection of straight razors is made from high-grade Japanese steel and quality wood. Our Solomon Straight Razor, in particular, has merited outstanding reviews.

So if you’re looking for the one blade to cut across the grain of your stubble easily, why settle for anything less than a Naked Armor straight razor?

More Naked Armor Reads

Straight Razor Shaving: How to Wet Shave with a Straight Razor
Straight Razor & History of Shaving
How to Remove Rust from a Straight Razor

References

1. William Shakespeare [Photograph]. (2018, March). Beard Style. https://beardstyle.net/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/william-shakespeare.png
2. Toxin-Free Farmstead. (2016, October 7). How to Pattern Facial Hair Growth or Grain. YouTube. https://youtu.be/7HmRo5KFssI?si=ERGw3rrgppj6t8EB
3. Choose Your Weapon: A guide to Razor Selection. (n.d). NOAH. https://noah.com.au/blogs/the-grooming-guide/a-guide-to-razor-selection